Traction light and jerking or hard shifting

Boomer

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Make
Pontiac
Model
G6
Year
2007
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Engine
3.5
Ok, the car was driven this weekend a bit and only had a problem once. She said on the radio display it said something about service traction control. She just stopped by and read the codes that we had cleared the other day. The Codes are now C0561 ABS system disabled. She said it was shifting hard when that light comes on.

She also said it started to choke while driving. She had to stop at a stop light and feather the gas to keep it running. We may have to thoroughly clean the throttle body? Maybe pull it off the car and clean it real good. There were also all of these codes that sound like they would be related to that. P0201,P0202, P0203,P0204,P0205,P0206 Injector circuit open for each cylinder. Maybe the ground situation you guys mentioned in the no hot start thread? I will check that stuff and try more of the wiggle test.

At any rate, when she stopped by to have the codes read, the car was once again running fine. Thanks for all advice.
 

nickb2

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I f ing hate gremlins, and this is one of them. Dear boomer, trust, I am following this.

Gremlins are my specialty when I have time.

The c0561 code is there just to inform you that you have several powertrain codes, and the system is disabled because of those power train codes.

since both abs and pcm modules trade info, when one has a problem the other reports back. ABS module fall back, is to go off line to preserve vehicule integrity.

I might go into over kill simplify, but normally, many systems rely on fuel injection cut off for stability trac and other vsc options. For example, a supposed sport car such as the nissan 300z x option whatever, cuts fuel when loss of traction. Why, ask the engineer. not me.

I tried to spin wheels on one of those the other day, no go, engine went into cut off mode. spewed a code. :p :eek: ;):fixed:




Maybe the ground situation you guys mentioned in the no hot start thread? I will check that stuff and try more of the wiggle test.
 

nickb2

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this is one of those moments you NEED a laptop and some data logging capability. a scope would shine here.
 

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nickb2

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just to help, I will post a ground distribution schematic here if that helps, read carefully. location and choke points, what are the common points. follow wiring, logic is always key.

#3: When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever...

"You will not apply my precept," he said, shaking his head. "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth? We know that he did not come through the door, the window, or the chimney. We also know that he could not have been concealed in the room, as there is no concealment possible. When, then, did he come?"


The Sign of the Four, ch. 6 (1890)


Sherlock Holmes in The Sign of the Four (Doubleday p. 111)
 

Boomer

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Update: This problem has returned. It dies when trying to put it in reverse. The other gears it stays running. I took what I think is G105 and completely re did the grounds. Cut the GM connector off. Stripped all wires to new clean copper and connected it using a split bolt. I also did this with another ground approximately 8 inches forward of the other ground. This is on the drivers side kinda down under the throttle body area. Those grounds have to be good now. I'm not sure what I am going to try next. :(
 

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billr

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Try to determine which of these (if not all three) is ceasing as the engine dies:

1) Spark, a timing light is easiest/best, but just pulling a plug lead/coil and looking for spark to ground will do.

2) Injector, a "noid light" is easiest, but you can use a voltmeter

3) Fuel pressure/pump, pressure gauge or voltmeter again

If you lose all three, then a CKP or CMP circuit problem is likely; but tell us what results you get. More trouble-shooting needs to be done.
 

Boomer

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Try to determine which of these (if not all three) is ceasing as the engine dies:

1) Spark, a timing light is easiest/best, but just pulling a plug lead/coil and looking for spark to ground will do.

2) Injector, a "noid light" is easiest, but you can use a voltmeter

3) Fuel pressure/pump, pressure gauge or voltmeter again

If you lose all three, then a CKP or CMP circuit problem is likely; but tell us what results you get. More trouble-shooting needs to
So if I understand correctly, while the car is running in park. 1. Pull a plug wire and get it close to the engine and look for spark while someone drops it into reverse? 2. Pull an injector plug off and use a voltmeter to see if the voltage goes away when dropping into reverse? (I've been thinking of buying a noid light anyway but, just haven't had a need to use it until now I guess) 3. See if the fuel pump is shutting down when dropped into reverse?
 

billr

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Correct on the spark and pump, but for the injector you will need to leave connected and back-probe the wiring/connector while reading voltage. When the engine is running one injector wire should have steady 12V, and the other should pulsing, The pulsing is low duty-cycle so may be hard to detect if your meter is "auto ranging". Look for AC volts, and lock the meter on a single low range (20V or under) if you can. A 'noid light that can be inserted in series between the injector and harness would be much easier to use.
 

Boomer

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Correct on the spark and pump, but for the injector you will need to leave connected and back-probe the wiring/connector while reading voltage. When the engine is running one injector wire should have steady 12V, and the other should pulsing, The pulsing is low duty-cycle so may be hard to detect if your meter is "auto ranging". Look for AC volts, and lock the meter on a single low range (20V or under) if you can. A 'noid light that can be inserted in series between the injector and harness would be much easier to use.
Thank you. If I end up buying a noid light, any recommendations? I've had this in my wish list forever. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR57...olid=17DXR1XDSQ2K6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Just went there looking and I see this also. I don't know enough about them to know what to look for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QCD5CK...olid=17DXR1XDSQ2K6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Something else entirely

Seems a test light would work. Looking at youtube. Maybe I should take Nickb2 advice and spring for a power probe 4 I see it has a fuel injector mode.
 
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grcauto

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Noid light or timing light are both strobes. A strobe is just a very quick acting light of any kind.
 

Boomer

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Noid light or timing light are both strobes. A strobe is just a very quick acting light of any kind.
I take it you agree with Bill on this next troubleshooting step? I really thought those grounds were going to fix it. It seems so weird to me that it's only reverse, not drive.
 
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