P1130 code

eddieguy

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Joined
Dec 1, 2006
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398
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Make
Toyota
Model
Rav4
Year
2003
Miles
197, 904
Engine
2.0
Got 6 codes showing 1. Po309. 2. Po301. 3. Po171. 4. Po174. 5. Po161. 6. P1130

last year I gave a shop a new catalytic converter and all 4 new o2 sensors to replace on my Toyota RAV4 and it went from running horrible to running like a top but the success was short lived it’s running rough again especially at and stop lights

I also am recently getting the p1130 code that had been illuminated the fore mentioned cat and o2 sensor replace

does a p1130 code necessarily mean bad o2 sensor or can this code be caused by other malfunctionsthat could cause this code?
 

nickb2

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Hmm, are you sure about that first code, I dont think a rav 4 has 10 cylinders like a viper. ;)


it’s running rough again especially at and stop lights
Suspect vac leak at intake., Very common on these toys at around 200 ish klics.
You have two lean codes,

The p0161 is a heater code, that is easy to check, a multimeter can check resistance of the heater. This code however, WILL NOT cause a lean condition.

P1130 is also a air fuel ratio code, so again, suspect leak and check air intake also for cracks, but again, these toy jobs leak on the belt side.

also, of note, try cleaning the mas air flow sensor, this sensor is prone to fail common and cause these codes also. Lean codes can be tricky to find, so hooking up a vac gauge is good. If you have access to live data to how it reacts to propane enrichment etc is a bonus.

I know you may be limited in that area, So using a rubber hose, two feet or long, use that to create a hearing aid. It will amplify the hissing sound if a intake manifold leak is suspect.

I use mass air flow cleaner only, intake cleaner and brake parts cleaner is to aggressive for the filament. Most often than not, you actually end up making the sensor more gummed up than was before with the intake cleaner, etc yadadayada. sensor clean like this is what works best.
 
Last edited:

eddieguy

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I had a ground that I didn’t bolt back up to valve cover after replacing valve cover gasket and now that I have it’s made a huge improvement. Still will follow advise given. Thanks for all replies
 

eddieguy

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I can try the rubber hose thing I thought that I have heard hissing sounds before on the belt side but yesterday I sprayed carb cleaner and heard NO increase in rpms sprayed around intake, throttle body, brake booster cable and around engine bay in general no stall or increase in rpms
 

eddieguy

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Hmm, are you sure about that first code, I dont think a rav 4 has 10 cylinders like a viper. ;)



Suspect vac leak at intake., Very common on these toys at around 200 ish klics.
You have two lean codes,

The p0161 is a heater code, that is easy to check, a multimeter can check resistance of the heater. This code however, WILL NOT cause a lean condition.

P1130 is also a air fuel ratio code, so again, suspect leak and check air intake also for cracks, but again, these toy jobs leak on the belt side.

also, of note, try cleaning the mas air flow sensor, this sensor is prone to fail common and cause these codes also. Lean codes can be tricky to find, so hooking up a vac gauge is good. If you have access to live data to how it reacts to propane enrichment etc is a bonus.

I know you may be limited in that area, So using a rubber hose, two feet or long, use that to create a hearing aid. It will amplify the hissing sound if a intake manifold leak is suspect.

I use mass air flow cleaner only, intake cleaner and brake parts cleaner is to aggressive for the filament. Most often than not, you actually end up making the sensor more gummed up than was before with the intake cleaner, etc yadadayada. sensor clean like this is what works best.
Let me check codes again po309 don’t look right I must have hit wrong number on keypad
 

eddieguy

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Messages
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Points
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Hmm, are you sure about that first code, I dont think a rav 4 has 10 cylinders like a viper. ;)



Suspect vac leak at intake., Very common on these toys at around 200 ish klics.
You have two lean codes,

The p0161 is a heater code, that is easy to check, a multimeter can check resistance of the heater. This code however, WILL NOT cause a lean condition.

P1130 is also a air fuel ratio code, so again, suspect leak and check air intake also for cracks, but again, these toy jobs leak on the belt side.

also, of note, try cleaning the mas air flow sensor, this sensor is prone to fail common and cause these codes also. Lean codes can be tricky to find, so hooking up a vac gauge is good. If you have access to live data to how it reacts to propane enrichment etc is a bonus.

I know you may be limited in that area, So using a rubber hose, two feet or long, use that to create a hearing aid. It will amplify the hissing sound if a intake manifold leak is suspect.

I use mass air flow cleaner only, intake cleaner and brake parts cleaner is to aggressive for the filament. Most often than not, you actually end up making the sensor more gummed up than was before with the intake cleaner, etc yadadayada. sensor clean like this is what works best.
First code was mistakenly po309 when it should have been post as po300
 

nickb2

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P0300 is multiple misfire.

As for the ground on front of valve cover, those are essential for coils and injectors, so yeah, if one of those was not bolted back on, would explain alot. Thx for that feedback eddie guy, seems your on pace with the problem as usual, I admire your courage and go to attitude. ;)
 
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