Recent content by billr

OK, I got it... this is *only* a starting problem. When you say "it won't turn over", you mean it won't fire, but it always cranks, correct? You really need to use live-data to get this effort back on track. Although the fuel pressure was the most likely culprit, but seems OK, other suspects...

You need to be able to check the FP while a problem is happening; the engine cranking and not firing or starting to die while running, or running very poorly. That means you will need a gauge that you can keep for a while, and with a hose long enough to tape the gauge on the outside of the...

OK, the battery and vacuum hose issues are gone now. What about code history? Really, though, I think several of us are strongly suspecting fuel pressure. Getting a handle on that is going to be essential, even if you have to buy a gauge. A cheap one from Harbor Freight will be good enough...

OK then, we need a better picture(s) from the OP.

Please, let's try to get this back on track! The broken vacuum line has been fixed, but what about the "bad battery" issue? Has that been fixed, what was the problem there? Is the trouble-code history being monitored during all this? Have codes even been checked for? I'll add to the...

I can see it, but the picture isn't clear enough to guess about what it is. I will summon BP...

A bit off-topic, sorry... What Teradyne are you referring to? I worked for Teradyne many years ago and would be surprised if they now had products for the auto industry.

"...still have leak at compressor" But, where at the compressor, where lines connect or shaft seal, or someplace else???

Time to confess... it was just a bad knob! I pressed a steel "girdle" around the cranked hub; the rest was just more experience down the rabbit-hole.

Those rotors don't look all that "blued" to me. Do I see a difference in the before/after pix? Sure, but I see the same color difference on the center (bolt-circle) part of the rotors that did not get resurfaced.

I envy you rich folks that have DC amp-clamps!

I am sorry to hear of your sister's continued decline. I'm not a big fan of your video barrages here in public, but if they help you get through this tough time, then it is OK with me. Your help here is appreciated. I would like to talk to you more about the new EV world, but will probably do...

The switch and PCM are connected with wiring/connectors that may be bad. You have to check out the whole circuit, not just components (switch and PCM) at each end of the circuit. My guess is that the PCM is retarding spark advance to "soften" a perceived gear-shift. Live-data, maybe even data...

I'm confused. What started this thread, was there some question posted about the Tesla X?

Where do they leak, one of the ports or the shaft seal? Someplace else? Did both of the replacements leak in the same place?