Recent content by billr

Do I really have to say it??? Post the codes!

I'll ask for it to be moved to the Trans forum.

Wires that may be either transmitting or receiving electrical noise can be shielded by wrapping in aluminum foil and connecting the foil to ground (one place for the ground, anywhere along the foil). Make sure the foil completely covers the wires/harness in question

There are plenty of places in my HD to try out a light. Look down low on a rack, and way in the back behind the display items.

Oh my, what a busy boy you have been! (Or is that "asininely assiduous"?) I think a steradian would have flat sides, more like a pyramid than a cone, but really, who cares? I refer to lumens as a rough guess of how "bright" a light will be, but for me the best info is gained by just turning...

The short answer is that how the light is focused is of great importance. I'm not sure, but perhaps the light color is also important (the temperature in Kelvin degrees). I don't know right now if "lumen" ratings take into account what frequencies we can actually see.

Cleaning the grid on a MAF sensor seems to be a popular past-time, too. If no joy after fussing with the MAF sensor, check fuel pressure with a gauge.

Did this just start; is this vehicle new to you? Generally, I would prefer to fix the root problem rather than just scab-on some kind of "filter" that wasn't needed with the OEM design. Is it a stock (OEM) radio?

The cranking speed looks low, and the MAF looks low. At 174 rpm cranking, with a 2.7L 4-stroke engine, I would expect to see 30-40 lb/hr for the MAF.

Yeah, that caught my eye too, but I'm thinking the fueling at 143 should still be rich enough to get it to fire, since the fueling at "123" is rich enough for a cold start. And the fuel PW looked reasonable for a cold start and then a warm engine start. On second thought, I agree with Dan and...

Then look for MAF. Check fuel pressure when it cranks but won't fire. Does it keep running if you use the starting-fluid to get it firing?

"Replaced coil and electronic ignition module." That is from the original post. Was the replacement ICM bad?

A couple of things to try: 1) When it is warm and won't fire, try cranking with the throttle wide open. No joy? Then repeat that after giving it a quick blast of starting-fluid. 2) Connect a voltmeter to an injector power lead and check that it stays pretty solid at 12V as the injectors...

Do you have live-data? I would look first at ECT and IAT, then TP, MAP and injector PW. My guess is that there is a perception that the injector signal is getting "weaker" because the fueling is being commanded leaner and the injector pulse-widths are shorter.

There was a "report to admin" recently, either by Phil J or nickb2. I can't tell which, and why the report. Can either of you clarify who and why the report? Do it by PM if you prefer.