Recent content by billr

Try posting to the below, too. Be sure to post in the forum specific to that model: saturnfans.com

No R12 pieces used. Just standard screws and some brass. The cap in the pictures is the smaller one, on the low side. The high side has the larger one, which aggravates difficulty in trying to seal it with a plastic cap. Yes, of course I made a cap for the high too.

I have had two in my yard in the last few years. One got a dog on the nose. It was amazing how fast that venom worked! Within just 10 minutes the dog seemed near death. He survived, but it took $1600 worth of anti-venom. Not my dog, not my $1600.

See my other "A/C ports" thread. As to the spark-plug threads, 14mm and 18mm were standard 50 years before your "50 years ago"; by the 1920s (maybe even before). Quality tooling for manufacturing tooling is never cheap, but those dies would certainly not have been "special" in 1969!

I put the pictures with this thread. Those are simple brass "cups" with an M8 x 1.0 screw threaded in and soft-soldered. Loctite would probably work OK, too, but I trust solder better. I tapped the caps with common 5/16"-24, that is so close to M8 x 1.0 that it doesn't matter that, especially...

"BTW, thats a hundred per coupling. But well worth it. " You, too, read the link you posted. The $104 cdn is for a set consisting of both a high and low coupler

Did you bother to look at the link you posted? Those are metal covers over plastic caps; won't seal any better than the stock ones. I want metal functionality, not metal appearance. I'll post a picture and brief description of what I made later today. Ignore all that FUD about the threads...

I sure don't know about all R134a ports of that era, but my '94 Saturn has regular-type Schrader valves, and they gleefully develop leaks. I made metal caps with O-ring to seal the ports. So far, so good...

The first thing to suspect is a low refrigerant charge. Does the compressor rotate when A/C is supposed to be on, but you get only warm air? Is the front of the condenser reasonably clean? Is the engine cooling fan working? If it passes those quick visual checks, then the next step is to...

If you have a decent scope, checking C or L is fairly easy. It is more cumbersome than a dedicated tester, but is the practical way for poor-little-me without unlimited funds for equipment. I have been doing a lot of research and experimentation lately pertaining to motor drives (my EV bug)...

I am in California (and away from the coast). "Rust" here is just a brown patina, like weathered copper.

I suppose I should have asked for you to post pictures of the rust. Yeah, if you think it is bad enough that a hole has rusted through, then they are trash. As always, I try to give reasonable advice; but I am not "on site" to do the actual inspection or work. Your opinion is the one that...

Rust on exterior, non-sealing, surfaces is only cosmetic. If the engine was running OK before, I would just replace the damaged injector. It all depends on how wealthy you are...

Is there a question there?

Not a problem, ignore it. The moth, that is... the socket would have been a worry. Years ago we lost one of the 5/16" nut holding the carb onto the intake, while the carb was off and the intake open. both of us working on it were certain we had not dropped the nut in, but still spent a long...