Snapper Snow Thrower issues

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#1
So I have a problrm with ny Snapper Snow Thrower staying running. I have done zero winter-prep work (I know I should start with newly mixed fuel, etc.)
I filled it up with last years mixed fuel and it will start and continue to run until i lower the choke or put any kind of torque on the spinning scoop (is that what you call it?) If left alone, it will run for some time. If i throttle the choke, dies. If I start scoops (?) it will run and spin until i get into snow, then dies. After it dies, I have to prime the engine again for it to start.
Also, there is a small fuel leak somewhere that I never managed to find last year. But it holds fuel enough to move all the snow I need. It is a slow leak.
Any ideas or help (beyond "You should use new fuel") will be appreciated!

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#3
what engine would help - but it sounds like a governor issue to me- so called air vane might be stuck seized....
 

jd

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#6
If it's a float feed carburetor (Both TEC and B&S use them on various models), a common clog spot is the vertical brass jet that runs straight up the middle of the carb. Copper reacts with gasoline to form GUM. That Jet is a common spot for stale fuel to coagulate.

But please, Make/Model... In this case the M/M for the Engine is more important than for the Snapper component. Still, with M/M for the Snapper, we might be able to back into some info for the Engine.
 
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#7
If it is a 2stoke it does not have a float,most common cause of stalling under load.The high speed fuel adjustment is set to lean.There should be two screws on the side of carb one is marked L the other is marked H.Standard adjustment for both is one turn out.The way to do this is bottom the screws turn them in until you can't turn them anymore,then turn out one turn for both start the engine open throttle wide open and adjust the screw marked H until you have the highest possible RPM continue turning until the engine starts to run a little rough.Now it will have enough fuel going into the combustion chamber to sustain combustion. 2strokes have to run rich under load other wise they will stop.
I hope this is clear if not I will try something else.
I have ten years exp in small engine repair 2stroke and 4stroke
 

nickb2

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#8
Yeah,

I hate these threads, when a newbie asks a question and doesn't stick around for answers.

This thread should be dead in the water.

Part of the internet game I guess. The impact of wanting everything for free with no consequences and then fire at will when answers don't stand up to par, even if it's free.

What a BS world we live in.

:confused:

The minute you ask for a # number or specific details, most will not respond. Cuz checking that out includes getting off your couch and actually doing something as difficult as checking a few model and engine name tags. Brand name, year and what so.

Those are the type of ppl that chose drying dishes over washing them. You wash, they just leave them there to dry on their own. Where is the effort.

Ppl like that you can tell easy, cuz their garbage is full of delivery pizza/fried chicken shyte and frozen microwave dinners.

http://www.peopleofwalmart.com/complete-with-tang/

Tweeking at walmart.

We just don't see this kind of stuff where I live.!!:eek:



 
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nickb2

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#9
@Chris Morgan, don't beat yourself on threads like this. If you have good expertise, it will show. Until then, can't wait to see you in the forums for other good responses.


You will see I use humor a lot. Especially on dead threads like this.

;):bat: