Presure washer kickback

Discussion in 'Small Engines' started by billj, Jun 30, 2016.

  1. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    I have a Troy Bilt/ Briggs and Stratton 6.5HP Power Washer which loves to try to pull my arm out of the socket when it kicks back during starting. New spark plug, new air filter, new carburetor, pulled the head cleaned out any carbon, new head gasket. My question is would a higher octane fuel have more resistance to kickback. or just cause hard starting. I was thinking the delayed ignition of a 91 octane may kick back less than a 87 octane. Also unit is very hard to start once hot.
     
  2. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Take a compression reading on it. If compression is good, like 90 or so for a flat-head or 150 for OHV, then the compression-release that provides "Easy Spin" starting is bad. Generally, ignition timing on those engines is non-adjustable, but if you post the engine model number, I can check a bit on that and the compression-release. No, using a different octane-rating will have no effect on this problem.
     
  3. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    100% agree with Billr.

    Compression release malfunction. I would check the release function first to see if it's not gunked up/stuck before putting usless parts.

    Most likely it is a OHV. But I will wait for poster to respond on that.

    I found this video out that is very short and concise on what Bill and I think is the problem.

     
  4. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Whatever octane is in there should NOT affect the compression release mechanism. Or as Bill and Briggs call it the "easy spin".

    Tecumseh has a similar system.
     
  5. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Hey guys Thanks : model 020207 Rev 00
     
  6. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    I'm finding that 020207-x is the number for the Troy washer assembly, not the engine. P/N 020207-0 is "2400 psi" and 020207-1 is "2450 psi", for what that's worth. They probably changed vendors of the pump. The engine number for B&S is often on the flywheel cover, but very hard to read as it is very lightly stamped.
     
  7. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    I think the engine is a 550. But I am limited in this. Billr is the go to guy on the briggs. :D

    Cuz I also did research on 020207 and all I got was nozzle parts and chassis parts for the pressure portion of the model.

    The briggs engine is the same pretty much all across the board.
     
  8. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Here's the engine numbers the best I can read:

    123K02-0236-E1
    03110756
     
  9. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    123K02-0236-E1

    That looks like a good B&S engine number, I'll take a peek at the IPB.

    Edit: That is a vertical-shaft flat-head engine, correct? It looks like the camshaft may have that compression-release stuff on it, but I can't zoom in enough to be sure. The ignition coil does look like it is non-adjustable for timing, only the air-gap can be changed. I think I have heard of some small engines like that shearing the crankshaft key, so that timing slips. You would need a gear puller to remove the flywheel and check that. If you have fab skills, then you could make an even better puller; there are two holes in the flywheel ready-to-tap for that purpose.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
  10. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Yes, Vertical shaft, flat head. I'm sure I can rig up a puller. I have a back up pressure washer I am working on also. It s a 4.5HP Briggs. It is about ready to go except that I don't have the correct unloader for it. The unloader was stuck in so tight that even with PB Blaster soaking overnight the unloader shaft broke in half prying on the spring with a large screwdriver.
     
  11. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Shyte, my gf just went home.

    Shucks's

    She felt I was giving too much attention to you all.

    Not enough to her. High maintenance car, / pussy.

    ooPS;)
     
  12. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Well tell her mine was stuck all night and broke in half in the morning
     
  13. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Before actually yanking off the flywheel, check timing with a light. I don't know the specs for that, but am guessing about 10 BTDC; if it is way up, like 30 BTDC, then you have some confidence you are heading in the right direction. I have never had a key shear, but believe it is possible. The only "chronic" problem I have had with those type of engine is the valve seats seem to "sink away" so that valves never fully close. I have had to grind the valve stems shorter on a few old engines, but that causes low compression and just a no-start condition; not kick-back.
     
  14. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    If the key shearded, we would not be having this discussion.

    Probably wrote sheaded wrong oops.

    Sorry for writing pussy, I should know better. Off topic, but my dad once got told straight up in front of the whole family. My soon to be ex mother in law said to every one that had a beer or wine glass that my father couldn't get it up.

    Talk about a wierd situation. All my dad was able to do at that point was too look at the floor. I said to her, how in heaven would you even think to say something like that in a family gathering??!! That is more reserved for the bedroom. At that point I was so irate at her, everybody started looking elsewhere and I heard engines starting up, everybody wanted to leave. Yeah, that was akward.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2016
  15. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    a two jaw puller and a good whapp of a 8 ounce ball peen hammer should suffice. Heat is always welcome. ;)
     

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