non running mower

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by eddieguy, Jun 23, 2017.

  1. eddieguy

    eddieguy Sr. Member

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    Someone gave me a poulan self propelled mower that they had sittingin the garage for sometime not being used. I couldnt get it to run but if i shot a little carb clener through the intake it would start and run a couple of seconds til the carb fluid was spent and then died. The spark plug looks clean and produces spark, the air filter is also like new, i cleaned all the old fuel out of tank and replaced with fresh gas. So far all ive done with the carb is remove the nut below the bowl and try to clean it out. Theres a cylinder shaped piece with a small hole that i stuck a paper clip through to possibly clean it. I noticed there is another brass looking screw in the side of the brass bowl shape peice that would not turn and i dont know what thats for and didnt seem to want to turn and i didnt want to crank on it to hard. If i remove fuel tube to the carb would this allow me to remove linkage to carb so i could remove the rest of the carb? Not sure how to remove the carb otherwise. Could there be a problem with the float? This seems like a carb problem this is a polan self propelled with 5.5 honda gvc160 model no.pr55hy21ca
     
  2. eddieguy

    eddieguy Sr. Member

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    Since i dont know the proper names for all parts i can try and get pics of my description
     
  3. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Yes, pictures will definitely help. <smallenginepartswarehouse.com> is where I go for IPBs and actual parts.
     
  4. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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  5. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Dan, those pictures aren't all of the same type carb. You knew that, just trying to keep me confused?
     
  6. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    Bill, those carbs were more of a "may be used for" Honda GVC160. I threw those up there thinking Eddieguy might say if they were right or wrong. I realize the third one has visual differences.
     
  7. jd

    jd Hero Member

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    Copper reacts with gas to create GUM. So, the Main Jet (that hollow brass tube up the center, seen after the "Nut" comes off, is likely to be gummed up. If it has a jet in the side of the center part of the carb body (that the nut threads into) has a jet, clean that. Sometimes the "nut" incorporates a little hole that's a jet passage. Spray carb cleaner, paper clip, the wire in the middle of a sandwich bag twisty, all helpful. DON'T drill the metal out! The Float Assembly (needle and seat, pivot pin) may be stuck.

    I had a mis-spent youth. Tinkered with mowers when I should have been chasing girls. The mower part includes hundreds of carburetors. The more "economical" the engine, the harder to clean the carb, since its passages are smaller.

    Honda engines are what I'll call "elegantly engineered." Some might say "over engineered" but what it adds up to here, is that just getting the carb off the motor and being able to get it back with all the gaskets, spacers, AND LINKAGES, can be tricky. Take pictures or run a video.

    When you DO get it running, add liquid carb cleaner like Berryman B-12 Pour In, in a heavy ratio and go mow with it.

    I've started going to the marina and getting ValvTect gas for the small engines. It's ethanol free with a stabilizer in it. Here in FL, some of the Gate Gas Stations have an ethanol free pump. If you get non ValvTect, add StaBil or Startron Stabilizer. Higher price but worth every penny. Our Honda-powered pressure washer gummed up twice when I wasn't using it. Then I started StaBil. Then the marina fuel.

    Even our state parks are insisting on ethanol free. This Fuel Thing is real. Ethanol's bad for the soft fuel lines in trimmers, blowers, chain saws, too. It's also been PROVEN that gasoline marine engines will self destruct on that E85 that the lobbies are pushing.

    OK, back to the mower. Poulan's an OK mainstream brand and Honda's a great engine, so worth fixing. If you can't get it going with what you're comfortable doing, try to source the carburetor model then shop for it on line. They're prohibitively expensive at a shop, but sometimes way less on line. Also, some mower shops keep parts off engines that got trashed hitting rocks, run out of oil, and so on. Sears used a goofy carburetor and I got a working used one $10.
     
  8. JackC

    JackC wrench

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    jd's answer is about as perfect as it could be. Follow his advice and you should be good to go.
     
  9. eddieguy

    eddieguy Sr. Member

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    MOBILE Dan the first 2 pics look very close to my carb but not identical can they vary a little?
     

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  10. eddieguy

    eddieguy Sr. Member

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    Thanks i will follow that advice
     
  11. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    Any variation is not much a factor it this point in diagnosis. Flip that puppy over and take some (in focus) shots of carb features inside the bowl, what we might call "the wet part of the carb".
     
  12. eddieguy

    eddieguy Sr. Member

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    Problem :fixed: after i cleaned the carb im running, i will need to replace my fuel line from tank because my vice grips cut into it when i tried to pinch closed- i put a little hand towel around fuel line before pinching closed but the metal jaws of the vice grips still cut into it and gouged a cut into it- guess i should pick up one of those plastic jaws pinching tool for pinching off something like this in the future. Oh well that little rubber fuel line shouldnt be too expensive a part.
     
  13. LynnM

    LynnM Sr. Member

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    Today's ethanol fuels play h$ll with small engines that don't get used alot Add some fuel treatment
     

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