Crank, no start

Discussion in 'Import Vehicles' started by Oskido, Jan 7, 2018.

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Please advise safe procedure to follow

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  1. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Maybe you were getting a 8.64v reading on a 12v circuit, that would be more reasonable. But if you were on a 2 volt scale, that would equate "maybe" something close to the reading you have on those three meters you tried out.

    I hope some of this is making sense to you.

    Good luck, study, post back results to keep this thread going, it may help someone else out in the futur.
     
  2. Oskido

    Oskido Newbie

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    Ouch, this is going to become a costly exercise. I'll check what I can find in SA tomorrow as our currency is trade at R12.56 to the $.

    I could just start with a Injector Driver module but let's see. I have a Toyota Corolla 1993 which is direct injection and used same tester at got a 12.2v reading on those injector connectors. Is direct and rail totally different to check?

    See photos from Rav4 test when tested on DCV 200 range on B+ pin and ground. IMG_20180107_094013.jpg IMG_20180107_094013.jpg View attachment 9903

    I think I'm doing something wrong but thanks for the advice and will chat later.
     

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  3. Oskido

    Oskido Newbie

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    Thanks for all the info and help. Will use the info wisely and be safe in storm you guys are experiencing.

    Will update later.
     
  4. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Off topic, but the last couple of replies to this thread got caught in the "moderator's queue" as possible spam; that's why they didn't appear here promptly. I have no idea why that happened, but will pass the info on to jordanr.
     
  5. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Sorry, but in the photo's provided, I am only seeing 12v with meter connected to battery. I am NOT seeing a injector solenoid connecter and the voltage readout THERE.
     
  6. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Oh, ok, found the 86.9v reading photo. However, I would have liked to see the size of the wires of the circuit you are testing.

    Also, a amp claw that would have shown current.

    As I said before, I cannot give PROPER info since I have never seen a Rav4 common rail engine like this under my thumb as they do not exist yet in canada. As for USA, I cannot confirm, but my ALLDATA says the USA has not seen them yet either for this year RAV4.

    If this system has a step up transformer such as an IDM that would be normal as the injector/s need quite a lot of current to open. My guess is that, then yes, from my study of such engines, you will see such voltages and more as that is what is required to drive open the injector/s.

    You could try another IDM module, they fail very often in ford/international duramax engines. This is a toyota, and probably don't use an international IDM driver box. But my gut feeling is that the IDM is trying to do it's job, but may have a internal driver FET gone out which is causing your no start.

    Those codes you talked about, I cannot confirm.

    If the wires you are trying to check are the size of your little/pinky figure, plz be very cautious doing voltage and current checks. There is a very serious or imminent threat to your safety, and since (you wrote) you have very limited knowledge of how to use meters, you may find yourself getting bit quite hard by the current.

    That is WHY I wrote, that is NOT an adequate meter for diagnostics of this type of engine. Not to sound snobbish, but the meter you are using is a very cheap meter. If you have gone through three meters trying to check this issue, you are obviously doing something wrong and checking a circuit that is very hazardous to your health.

    At this point, I am very iffy about continuing to give you advice as I would feel very bad to give you advice just to find out you have had a accident on behalf of my advice.

    An IDM is a very precise module as it needs a very high duty cycle for the short duration/action it needs to do for a diesel engine of this type.

    Step 1- I suggest you read up as much as you can on common rail engines. Knowledge is you best bet here. If you lack that knowledge, take it to a professional. If you lack one in your area, repeat step 1.

    Sadly, for safety issues, I am going to step out of this thread.
     

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