Brake Master Booster Parts?

BC

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#1
MAKE: Toyota
MODEL:Tundra
YEAR:2003
MILES:300K
ENGINE:4.7
DESCRIBE ISSUE....

Anyone know where I can find a seal for the brake power booster? 03' Tundra 4.7 ext cab 2wd. 300K miles

Where the push rod goes into the power booster there's a seal and it is cracked causing emissions code. Found it when I turned engine off with the hood open. I could hear a hissing sound coming from the master cylinder where it mounts to the booster. Pulled the master cylinder off and sure enough, seal has a split in it. This is the seal that the master cylinder push rod goes and is mounted inside the booster itself. Wish I had taken a picture of it.

I checked with Toyota for the part but they only sell booster. Checked on Ebay and found seal kits but not for tundra. Sure could use some help if anyone has a vendor in mind.

Thanks!
 

nickb2

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#2
I would try going to your local parts store and ask them to pull out a o-ring kit.

Often times these o-rings will have a square diameter, but a round diameter will do in a pinch.

I am thinking you are talking about this seal or something close to it? Yes? o-ring.jpg
 

nickb2

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#3
I know this sounds like shoddy workmanship, but I have used gasket maker such as "the right stuff" from permatex. That stuff is great for an application such as this. Applying a good 1/8 - 1/4inch thick layer on mating surface will seal that. It sets in about 1 min and can be ready for use. But if you have time, let it set overnight but not very necessary, it sets right out of the tube. It won't leak if done properly.

Just leave the old split o-ring in there, apply some right stuff on and around the o-ring, and like I wrote above, spread some stuff around the mating surface where you bolt master to booster. I would very surprised if it leaks.

I don't endorse the right stuff in anyway, except just to say, I love that product. It is expensive to buy, but a tube of that stuff goes a long way, very elastic, holds up to any oil you throw at it. When I re seal an engine, this stuff is great, never have a comeback and it doesn't slop all over the place like other sealers I have used in the past. So for an inanimate object surface like a booster to master mating surface, this product will have no problem just sitting there for years and years to come. The heat there is not a problem, and those lean codes you are getting due to a vac leak will go away for the price of a 20$ tube. And like I said, probably just leave the old one in there to help seal the deal.

Hey, try it, you got nothing to loose. If it still leaks, I would be very surprised, but you have lost just a few minutes of your life trying to save 500$ for a new booster.

Also, if your o-ring is square shaped diameter, don't worry about it, a round one will do if it is the right thickness. Like you, I only found tacoma kits. And I sure as heck would never spend money on a new booster for a 2$ o-ring. :idea::fixed:;)
 
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nickb2

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#4
This is your setup, so if you have not got the drift by now, where you see the studs coming out if the booster, that is where you want to aptly apply the right stuff. A good thickness of it will do. Here is a link to the product. I stay away from the aerosol can, that tends to jam up. Where as the half tube kit with the caulking gun is quite usefull. I can do at least 4-5 engine overhauls with a kit like this. https://www.carid.com/permatex/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-22885475.html


As the old lady from red hot franks sauce says. I put that sh$t on everything.



I often have to pull apart engines, transmission and such, kits almost never have all the o-rings and gaskets needed to get the job done.

Ok, I think I have talked enough about the merits of this product, just try it. I am 100% sure you will get that silly split o-ring sealed for sure if you try my idea out. I know it has worked every time for me. It looks silly when you see a glob of the stuff bulging out, but hey, this is not a show car right? It's a daily driver. So who cares if it looks barn yard, as long as it seals. And if your that intent on seeing a clean job, just use a pick and a rag to clean up the excess before it sets. See pic below for your set up, confirm that the area we are talking about is where the studs come out from booster. Yes? Screenshot (174).png
 
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#5
I think OP is looking to replace the seal at the booster push rod. The Bendix version looks like a more likely candidate to "pop a new seal in there". (maybe even...right on top of the old seal)
 

BC

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Hey Nick, Dan is right I'm talking about the seal that fits inside the booster (red arrow) The push rod, off the master cylinder (blue arrow), is where I believe the seal is made for the vacuum between the two. It may be a day or so, but I'll take the master off and see if I can remove the seal and take some pics of it.
Speaking of the "right Stuff" What's your thoughts if I was to clean the seal, leave it in place, and run a bead of right stuff on it, then put a thin amount of lubricant on the master cylinder push rod so the sealant wouldn't adhere while drying. This might form a workable seal, what you think?

The seal should be made from this o-ring around the push rod correct? I mean, I could do like you said and make a new sealing area between the master cylinder flange and the Power booster surface. Or would this create a vacuum around the push rod where it shouldn't be?

I hope I'm not overthinking here. I appreciate your advice thanks to you both for the help!
 

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nickb2

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#7
In which case, I can only assume it is this seal, which is NOT a static seal. I don't think making a workable seal on a seal such as this out of my beloved "right stuff" would work.That is most likely a neoprene type seal which sees a lot of action in the in and out dept.

I am sorry about getting your hopes up, I was sure we were talking about a static seal/gasket you commonly associate with booster hissing/vac noise and lean codes. I think that even if you tried a radial type seal, it would still not work even if if you had right ID and OD.

See snapshot if this is what your seal looks like. If so, no luck at all trying to find that seal. I have no idea where the reman companies get their overhaul kits from, and that is a big secret they tend to keep to themselves. You may have to bite the bullet on a used unit or a new one, cuz I was sleepless in seattle as you can see by the time stamp on my snapshot, spent over an hour scouring the internet for any such seal, there simply is none. Although I know they exist, since companies like "centric" etc do remanufacture these boosters, but good luck getting that info out of them or others who reman them. :cool::eek: Screenshot (175).png
 
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nickb2

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#8
I think I saw a tacoma link on ebay that seemed to have what looked like this push rod to booster seal, but again, that would be a hit and miss for fit. Would it be right ID and OD? Who knows. You would need a vernier caliper to measure and hope to find specs for that online.

Like I said, I have just literally spent a few hrs online now, and I am finding nada. Although I do find I am quite good at the google thing, others here may have other options. Wait on it, but like I said, you might have to bite the bullet here. I hope not, but sometimes, that is just a fact of life. Back in the days of older cars, one booster fite many cars, so reman kits were widely available to the public, nowdays, not that reality anymore. It's garbage in, garbage out. Filling up our landfills with useless waste for 2$ seals and such.

Much like throwing out a perfectly good tv for a 0.79pennies on the dollar capacitor. I have fixed many tv's monitors with bad caps. Most ppl throw out the whole unit because they don't know how to fix them themselves, and much like your booster, it would be such an easy fix, but the big companies don't profit from that.

Wouldn't life be just better environmentally to not have to throw out that soccer ball size piece of metal and rubber which is a booster when all you need to do is replace a seal the size of a silver dollar?

I am really not one to be the environment guru, granola eating vegan type snob who washes his soda cans before recycling them. But I sure know what planned obsolescence is and how THAT is affecting more our planet than cow farts that these vegan types like to raise hell about.

I know when I go vegan for one lunch, I probably produce as much methane as a cow.

So if any vegans on this site tell me they don't fart, may god strike me dead at this instant. Oh, that's right, I am an atheist. So just shoot me.

Ok, my rant of the day. I am sick of seeing stupid ppl in the world blaming this and that, when they don't really get their hands dirty to fix their own shyte to produce less pollution in third world countries. Complaining is easier than opening a book on how to fix a tv or other easy stuff we know is planned to fail.

This rant also reminds me of the printer cartel. Can someone explain to me why one printer cartridge costs the same price or more than a whole new printer with same cartridge installed? Where is the eco friendly logic in that? I can buy a brand new HP desk jet printer for 45$, the replacement black ink cartridge is 49$. The color one is even more expensive, so that is over 100$ for two replacement black and color cartridge, but same printer comes right out of the box with both black and color cartridges for less than 50$.

So plz explain to me how they make a viable argument for the environment when they are selling printers at half the price of the ink you need to use the damn f-ing printer once you printed the first 300 or so pages OF YOUR NEW F_ING PRINTER but won't work any more cuz it has a program in there to tell you you need more ink. Cheaper to pollute the planet, pay cheapchinese labor, pollute the planet more by using more valuable resources to make the damn thing over and over again for what should be a 2$ refill of ink. No logic, and these companies dare put a blue eco sticker on their products too boot.
 

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#9
Wow Nick, I didn't think an o-ring would get you all fired up like that lol! Thank you spending your valued time searching google! I probably have 4 hours or more of exhaustive searches myself, and is why I ended up here. Never-the-less, your time is appreciated! It's not a total loss even if I have to go another route, I always learn something from you guys so again, thank you for the suggestions on the types of products you like and their best uses. This is worth it's weight in gold!

I use the vehicle for daily driver and need it for the next several days, but I will take some photo's and post when I do get into it. I'm afraid if I start pulling on the seal trying to remove it that it might be connected to something else behind and I could make things worse. But, I'm game for trying to fix it and save the $$.

It looks like the one in the photo but much smaller on the od as it is fitted inside the housing of the booster. I would say the od of the one I can see when looking inside the booster is probably 3/4", I'll know more about it when I go back in there to try and remove. I'll keep you posted.

They can keep the salads... as for me I'll keep the beef! Cows, deer, buffalo's, frogs, rabbits, turtle, and many more I haven't listed, that's what's for my supper!lol
 
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#10
I just bought a new printer. The old one was 15 years old and never failed mechanically, but the ink was getting more expensive and harder to find. Also, the scanner function software fell so far out of date that it was unusable. So, THIS time I bought a printer that has separate cartridges, 1 black, 3 colors. I bought the printer with the lowest cost for replacement cartridges...at about $10 each. Bonus is that it is wireless and can print from phone, tablet, or PC. Epson XP-446 Wal-Mart $50.
 

BC

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Well, I dug it out and low and behold I see Bendix stamped on it with these numbers. ATP-63 and 2518607

Looks very close to the one shown in your pic above Nick.

Now, another attempt to locate.
 

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nickb2

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#12
My eyes see this.

Not ATP-63

That 6 is an 8.

ATP-83

Not 2518607

That 8 is a 9

# is 2519607

May help narrow your search. And yes, it is a bendix push rod/plunger seal, or some may call it a vacuum seal. And yes, it is exactly like the photo I showed you from my google search.

So we know for sure this is what you need.

Now the big f-up in this scenario, try to find it. I tried every # combination, word match imaginable, even whizzed through the Bendix parts catalog on line, no such part # exists, or is obsolete, blah blah.

I can find one for BMW, corvette novas etc, not for a tundra 2010.

Can't say I didn't try, and maybe you need glasses, lol:cool::eek:
 

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Yelp, 10-4 on the glasses.:cool: I did the same, searched everywhere online. Only thing I found after several emails was that Honeywell Bosch took over some of Bendix older seals. No definition on what's older, but maybe 03 fits. Googled until my brain was fried looking for distributors and the ones I did email, couldn't find it either (they had the pic to look at). I went to 5 or more junk yards today, found one but was in bad shape so I passed on it. This bendix seal market is tighter than a gnat's ass, guess you gotta know somebody. All I can say is its a racket! $300+ for a refurb with core exchange for them to put maybe $10-$20 worth of seals if that, then re-sell...yelp, its a gig, about like the printer, well maybe not! The printer market got this beat for sure!

So thank you for your efforts and vision lol! I know you were trying hard to help find this for me, much appreciated!!!
 

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Thanks, I'll give them a call today. Found an 03 Tundra today at a junk yard so I'm heading that way to see if it's doable.

thank you for the info!