You could try something likehttp://www.scantoolsoftware.com/ this paired with a elm327 dongle/interface. I use this type of software on my PC.
But still trying to see if I can get some similar software to work on my samsung galaxy tab4 7" tablet and have been looking at the launch 431 V. It uses a andoid based software and basically is a samsung tablet such as mine with dual core cpu, same specs, but with a nifty cover that houses the obd2 connector.
What you can do is buy a elm327 bluetooth/wifi (depends on which tablet or laptop you have) and then try some software out.
Here is a link to a whole bunch of free software. You can try them out, see which one you like. Many of them are trial versions and you will need to pay a small fee for the full versions which will then allow you to see a greater variety of live data parameters.
Read the website to see if this is what you need. It seems to be around 155$, but there may be some hidden costs as usual.
I have worked with multiple scanners, included the launch platforms.I hated the launch scanner for it's slowness, but liked it for the coverage and the OEM capabilties ut had, but WAY to slow. I by far prefer the autel platforms. I am currently using a maxi sys pro platform at work. I love it.
I know I am off topic here, but yesterday, at work, I was on a Acura MDX tailgate problem. The tailgate would not unlock. Without the scanner in live data mode for the BCM, I would never have seen that the BCM was not seeing the left rear door as unlocked, thus preventing the tailgate to unlock. Even though all the door locks were functioning properly, the BCM was preventing the tailgate to unlock cuz one sensor signal wire was cut. I know this is a older car than the acura I was working on, but I am trying to show the importance of buying something with expanded live data. If you work on cars often, then it is worth the investment.
If you are just a DIYer, than renting one is usually a better option. But for 150$ for three days, I figure better to buy a OEM bi-directional scanner/software.
"Sorry, one other thing; it rolls in neutral only with the engine off. Engine on in neutral it is locked and won't move."
That is a significant clue. It seems like the turbine must be turning (when engine is running), pump is producing pressure, and something is hydraulically "locking"; like clutches are applied to select two gears at once.
Thanks for all that info, nickb2. I will look at those options. No idea those little plug-in dongles did much. billr, I think I've heard of that. Worth Googling when I get the chance. Ok, pulled the cooler line at the fitting closest to driver side, and routed a hose into a bottle. Ran the engine for like 45 seconds and put it in D as well as R. I think R has the highest pressure. Wow; got like 3 tablespoons of fluid. That doesn't seem like much. It was a bear to get the hose off; pretty sure it's never been touched. So that's a bit more data.
Probably nothing but in the power distribution center under the hood the EATX backup relay is missing. I doubt that's much of anything; my Dad's '98 Voyager beater doesn't even have that relay. Tomorrow I'll get under this pig and see if anything bites back,
Got under it today, pulled the pan, some shavings on the magnet but this has 186K and I didn't see any chunks of hardware. Pulled the filter, buttoned it back up and re-used the very nasty fluid, and got the same symptoms. So unless the fluid can get so horrible as to prevent normal hydraulics, this thing is coming out.
Pulled the inspection plate, and verified 2 converter bolts present and tight. So it's not those bolts. Something very loose at pass side front wheel, not sure yet if it's the balljoint or the axle flopping around. Leaning towards axle,
Thanks, bp042665. Maybe the snap ring for the overdrive/underdrive pressure plate? They didn't correct the major issue there until like mid-97; they were breaking. And this clearly hasn't been apart, so that makes sense. Another forum guy with identical symptoms they seemed to think planets.
they still have that problem on this unit and the 42RLE transmission i have seen planet but you normaly find metal chunks in the pan. i have seen a stripped input planet do this also i replace the planet set on every rebuild i do at my shop
Okay, no more whining or whirring sound. However, if you take it from idle to a higher rev and listen closely you can hear something, I guess you might say a gear sound, not exactly rattling but perhaps loose, seems to me in the rear geartrain area, but of course that could be me assuming things.
Got a pressure gauge and tested pressure at the taps:
Okay, got this thing apart. Rear planet grenaded. So far can't pry the 2-4 hub or the front planet off of the input drum. Currently disassembling the 2-4 and L-R clutch sets to see if anything is reusable. Have no real desire to mess with the rear planet, and have a '98 minivan core with good rear planet. Converter on this one looks like it was swapped out, and pump looks ok, so may use those parts in the other case. Or may start with another boneyard core.
Did my assembly and it will only get R and 1st. Won't upshift. Also the same whining noise that tranny had in the '98 I pulled it out of. I probably should have replaced the front planet; splines were not great but I didn't feel they were stripped. If they aren't grabbing, would I get symptoms like this? Oddly, still no tranny codes in this van, with 2nd faulty tranny.