2005 taurus power window problem

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by hoader, Oct 8, 2009.

  1. hoader

    hoader Full Member

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    I have a 2005 Ford Taurus with power windows. The front right window will go down but not up by the switches. I tried the switch on that door and the switch on the driver door. All the other windows work. I took off the inside door panel and couldn't figure what is going on with the switch. I ended up running jumper wires from the battery to the window motor to raise the window. Is there a drawing out there that can be posted showing how the switch is supposed to work? The switch has 5 contacts on it. I figured out the switch is supposed to reverse the polarity to the motor to reverse it's direction. I just don't know how! I think the switch is broken and I don't want the pain of pulling another door panel for comparison.
    Thanks hoader
     
  2. opelgt

    opelgt Hero Member

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    Fairly simple check. Use a test light at the switch contacts, check each contact with the switch in the "up" position. One contact will light and go out as the switch is depressed. One contact will have constant power and another will light with the switch being depressed in the "down" position. If the test light tests work as stated, it isn't the switch. Most common problems are the window motor or the wiring in the driver's door harness. You can also hit the door in about the center of the door while pressing the switch in the "up" position. If the window goes up, you need a new motor.
     
  3. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Even with a shop manual, pinouts, and a circuit diagram, can go nuts on trying to troubleshoot a problem, really no way to access the terminals on that large connector block particularly on the master switch. Wiring is as such that the switches go back and forth with the master acting as an interlock. Wouldn't be a good idea if you were trying to raise a window while your kid was trying to lower it. Would provide opposite polarities to the motor at the same time.

    I just pull all the switches, they snap together and can be snapped apart, but carefully as springs will fly out all over the place. These are not water proof switches, and whatever idiot decided to bend the car door half way around the roof, when you open the door in the rain, water gets in. Find the bare copper all corroded, has some grease on the contacts where the hot sun baked that grease as hard as a rock. Polish the contacts and put it all back together again after having at least two cups of coffee, have to be awake, but can visualize Chinese kids putting these things together blindfolded. Or you can take your overloaded credit card to your dealer and buy new ones.

    Best time to remove door panels is on a very hot day with your car sitting out in the sun, softens those plastic tabs a bit so with a prayer, they won't break off. On a cold day, heat up the garage and use a heat gun to ease the pain. But they sure snap in easy, everything on a vehicle snaps in easy, it's taking it apart that is murder. Door panels are not nearly as bad as trying to unsnap a dash panel. Break on tab and you have to live with a rattle the rest of your life.

    Another problem I have ran into is that cheap eight strand bare copper 16 AWG wire they use with PVC insulation between the door and the body of the car. Should put a big fat sign on both inside and outside of the door saying, warning, do not open this door if the temperature is below 60*F. Also another about not opening your door in the rain. That PVC gets as hard as a rock and can break into two. Replaced that with small strand plated neoprene 16 AWG test lead wire, that can hack those cold temperatures. But that is really a back breaking job trying to splice in wires bend way over like that.

    Wife and I did go car shopping with that clunker program, didn't buy anything, saw nothing but junk, but would pay extra for wind up windows, no such thing as convenience when you have to spend a couple of days keeping power windows working. Yes, I have replaced motor bushes as well, they want an arm and a leg for these cheaply made motors. Have a breakaway clutch, least some do, most now are using a circuit breaker that can also burn out.

    Have fun. Did have to drive back from Chicago in sub zero weather with those stupid toll booths, window went down, but wouldn't come back up again. Just thanked God, I didn't have any kids in the car.
     
  4. hoader

    hoader Full Member

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    NickD

    Thanks for the help. I choose a warm day. I got a switch from a donor car at pick-a-part and picked up a master switch just in case. The donors passenger switch behaved the same way so I pulled the driver side panel and swapped that switch. Then it worked with either switch on the passenger side. Hating rattles as much as you, I was very careful putting things back together and had to visit the hardware store for a missing metric bolt. I get my caffeine from Mountain Dew -- at least two for this job.

    You are also right about how the first thing to get wet is the arm rest when opening the door while raining. The arm rest is designed like a funnel to those open (not even water resistant) switches.

    Thanks Hoader
     

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