2002 mustang v6 replace camshaft synchronizer wrong Help

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#1
So i replaced the camshaft/crankshaft and messed up
First thing i didnt do is put #1 piston in tdc
Second thing used the alignment to put it in and then just moved the outter part of the syncronizer to the position i marked
Now the car is sputtered and making a rattling noise
What should i do
 
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#2
Is the sync brand new or a used one?

If you disconnect the wires from cam sensor, how does it run/sound? If disconnecting "fixes the problem", then misalignment may be the only issue.

I am reluctant to dig into the "get sync into proper alignment" issue if my questions are unanswered.
 
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#4
So far what i did is found the tdc this link i am about to provide help me through it

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/18nn3-2002-mustang-3-8l-v6-the-balancer-nothing-find-tdc.html

If your harmonizer or balancer doesnt have a line on it take out the spark plug that is number 1 on the chart and what i used was a cut cable cord to a good length where you can see it either go up or down now stop when its goes down and im guessing the tdc because thats the only mark i see and used it so no codes yet still have to drive it to see if it shows any codes
I havent tried your way yet because i researhed it all night
And this is the first car i worked on but i worked on it a couple of times so its progress just have to see if
 
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#5
And thank you mobile dan
This is the first time i used a forum and didnt think anybody was going to reply that quick
 

nickb2

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#6
My take on this resembles what Dan is saying. In principle, there should be a cam actuator solenoid that will vary the synchronizer.

If oil pressure is getting to that cam phaser, and sending timing out of whack, as Dan said, it may only be a alignment issue.

That cam is allowed to vary 30%. Which is quite a bit if misaligned. Would cause your sputtering issue.

But I must ask, you did replace this VCT timing assembly with a new one correct?

So if disconnecting the cam actuator solenoid, the cam phaser can no longer vary since it has no oil pressure to do so, and engine should work as normal being it is no longer VCT and just your basic v6 engine. If it still sputters after that, then you need to look at timing chain alignment since you did have to remove that to get to the cam phaser/syncro.

Yes?
 
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nickb2

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#7
If I were you, I would simply restart over again. If your hearing a rattling noise, that normally is NOT associated with a newly installed cam phaser/syncro, more indicative of a badly installed timing chain and or tensioner. Hence giving you bad timing.When you did this job, did you at least install a retaining pin for the t chain tensioner? If not, that may be the issue, and this needs to be explored.

My take is F uped timing job.
 
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nickb2

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#8
I am sure there also must be a check engine light on. It would be good to do a KOEO KOER code retrieval, may help pin down. Something like a code p0340

Here a few pdf's

read them. I have access to every database needed. Mitchel, alldata, Direct hit etc. There is no way us here at BAT auto can't help you if you follow guidelines for this engine. ;)
 

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nickb2

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#9
Tests/Procedures: 1. When using the special tool for sensor alignment, the engine needs to be placed at Top Dead Center (TDC) with #1 cylinder on compression stroke.

2. With the crankshaft in proper position, install the tool onto the synchronizer assembly and install the synchronizer so that the arrow on the tool points to 54 degrees counterclockwise from the centerline of the engine.

3. To verify that the installation is correct after removing the special tool, rotate the crankshaft to 25 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) for cylinder #1. To do this, note the relationship of the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and the trigger wheel on the crankshaft belt pulley. Every tooth on the ring represents 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation, so rotate the engine 2.5 teeth in the ATDC direction.

4. At the 25-26 degree ATDC point of crankshaft rotation, the tooth of the CMP synchronizer should be centered in the notch of the housing that is cut out for the mounting of the sensor on the housing.
Loosen the housing and rotate it to proper position as needed.
 

billr

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#10
I gotta ask... is this an "interference" engine? If so, valves may now be bent. I would do a leak-down test on each cylinder to see if they all hold pressure. No use re-timing if the heads have to come off to fix valves.