2000 Explorer won't crank

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by Mikerizer, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Mikerizer

    Mikerizer Quando omni flunkus moritati.

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    2000 Ford Explorer, 5.0L, 160k miles

    This is my brother's truck, and it won't crank. It was behaving a bit erratically a couple of times. One time, it wouldn't turn over or anything, then a few minutes later cranked right up. He cleaned/tightened the battery connectors, for good measure.

    After driving it a few days, it has stopped running. The engine turns over fine, with good power. However, it won't run.

    When he turns the key on, I can't hear the fuel pump running at all, and I don't hear anything under the hood. He had just filled the gas tank.

    What all stands between the key and the fuel pump, which I should check/eliminate before pulling the (full) gas tank out? The 20A fuse is good, and I switched the relay with another one of the same part number. Are there any other switches, relays, or sensors which could have it shut down?

    The engine light was NOT on.

    As always, thanks for your help!
     
  2. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    Sounds like your problem should be described as "cranks but won't start". "won't crank" in my neck of the woods means the starter will not make the crankshaft turn.

    When you remove your fuel pump relay you will see 5 slots in the fuse block. If you put a jumper wire between the two big slots, the fuel pump should run. You may have to move the key to the "on" position, but probably not.

    If it runs, you know the pump is OK. If it doesn't, try thumping on the tank while the jumper is installed to see if the pump starts running. If it does, you have a bad pump.
     
  3. kev2

    kev2 wrench

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    some questions then ck the attached dia

    will the ck eng lt come on when key moved to run?
    is the security light on?
    after market alarm or remote starter?

    as someone tries to start spray some carbor brake cleaner into throttle body...does it try to start on the spray?

    A fuel pressure check would be next after determining if the pump comes on.

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  4. Mikerizer

    Mikerizer Quando omni flunkus moritati.

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    Danica: yes...sorry about the misnomer...cranks, but won't start. Also, thanks for the info about the slots...I'll try jumping them, and see what I get.

    Kev2: I'll check on the ck eng light and security light...everything is OEM; no aftermarket stuff. I thought about spraying a dash of starter fluid or carb cleaner, but I didn't have any on hand. The truck is in the parking lot at work, so I have limited resources.

    All: I can't for the life of me locate a port on the fuel rail, to check fuel pressure...where about should I be looking?

    THANKS!
     
  5. billr

    billr wrench

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    Be sure to squirt primer fuel into the intake soon; if it fires like that you can pretty much eliminate spark and focus on "only" all the fuel system. It's so cheap and easy to do, should always be one of the first tests... I know kev2 already called for it, I'm just emphasizing.
     
  6. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Included here is a picture (ace#0) of your truck, look at #7 which is your for your engine. You will see the fuel rail, port is located on the side which has the pressure regulator. Of note here, ford have special threads for fuel pressure test fittings.
    Ace #1 picture is another view, you will see the arrows pointing to fuel rail hold down bolts, look at second arrow at top, the schreader vavle is there. Under intake plenum.

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  7. Jim Fairbanks

    Jim Fairbanks wrench

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    Maybe you can see it here....Jim

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  8. Mikerizer

    Mikerizer Quando omni flunkus moritati.

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    I'm in a shirt and tie today, between meetings, and it's a bit chilly, so my troubleshooting resources are limited at the moment. I ran out and took look during lunch, and found this:

    1. The check engine light does illuminate and stay on when you turn the key to the 'run' position.
    2. The THEFT light flashes quickly when the key is in the 'run' position. NOTE: this is the only key my brother has for this vehicle.
    3. I pulled the fuel pump relay, to jumper the two terminals and make the fuel pump hot, but all the slots look the same size to me. Please see the picture below. It's the receptacle on the right. Two of the slots are parallel vertically, the other three are parallel horizontally in this pic. Which two do I need to jumper in order to test the fuel pump?



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  9. Jim Fairbanks

    Jim Fairbanks wrench

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    I don't know if you can see the wires or not, but they are LB/OR and DG/YE...the LB/OR are hot from the battery and the DG/YE go to the fuel pump....also have the checked the inertia switch to make sure it isn't tripped...It should be under the dash on the passenger side under the right toe kick panel....Jim
     
  10. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    I am not sure I am reading this right, those relays you are showing are not the same ones I have in my alldata program, you are showing a different type. The ones I have in my program for your year and model are mini relays like the one shown below, post back if you see a difference. In my opinion you are showing blower motor relay and starter motor relay, below them should be smaller relays, look for #5 shown in the ace #2 and #3 diagrams posted.

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  11. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    Mikerizer...see those four smaller black relays in your picture? The one at the far left is your fuel pump relay. Like nickb2 is saying...

    Also...circuit goes like this...fuse 9, 20amp (hot at all times) sends power to fuel pump relay. With jumper installed power goes to inertia switch. If inertia switch is closed (as it should be) power goes to fuel pump. If power reaches pump, and pump is good, and there is a good ground circuit, pump will run.
     
  12. Jim Fairbanks

    Jim Fairbanks wrench

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    here is another pic

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  13. Mikerizer

    Mikerizer Quando omni flunkus moritati.

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    Jim and Danica, thanks!

    I was WAY off in my interpretation of the relay's position as described in the owner's manual!

    I'll pull the *correct* relay tomorrow, and swap it with one that I know is working. I'll also check the fuse and try the jumper. It'll be a trick getting to the inertia switch during business hours, because I can't open the passenger door very much due to being stuck in a parking lot.
     
  14. Mikerizer

    Mikerizer Quando omni flunkus moritati.

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    LATEST UPDATE:

    I pulled the *correct* relay, and jumped the two terminals. I could hear the fuel pump running. I let it run for about 90 seconds, but the engine still wouldn't start. I also removed the duct from the air cleaner to the intake and sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in it, while my brother held the throttle open and cranked the motor...still no start.

    Tomorrow, he and I are coming back to look at it. I'm going to plug in a spark tester, to check for fire.

    Another question is this, though...why won't the fuel pump run, even for a couple of seconds, when I turn the key on? Could there be a sensor or other problem that would cause a no-fire, no-fuel condition?
     
  15. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    Look in the fuse box again for the device labeled PCM Diode. I've seen some fail due to corroded connections.
     

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