1998 Chevy Lumina Rear Brakes Question

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by Scotty, Dec 6, 2010.

  1. Scotty

    Scotty Sr. Member

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    I got a friend of mine's car that is a 1998 Chevy Lumina, 3.1L V6 in need of rear drum brakes. I went to a junkyard today to look at a junker car to get an idea of what im facing in changing the brake shoes out. everything appeared to be easy. no biggie. its something i never done and doesnt look that hard to do. my question is, after i change the brake shoes on both sides, should i need to bleed the brakes even though im not opening any brake lines? Any tips will help me out. im planning to do this on thursday for my friend. thanks, Scotty
     
  2. billr

    billr wrench

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    If the little pistons don't pop out you should be OK without bleeding. One tip is to take apart one side at a time, so you have the other as a "sample". It's surprising how quick you can forget how all those links and springs fit!
     
  3. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Little trick for those that are paranoid about those cups/pistons falling out and leaking oil, I use a tie-rap and install before removing shoes. Or you can always make something that looks like this.http://74.125.67.100/imgres?imgurl=http://derwhites356literature.com/P47a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://derwhites356literature.com/356PorscheFactoryTools.html&usg=__mxkNsszV0STZmLrwhReLhmYGL68=&h=446&w=640&sz=33&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=fj8nr4n64DkxUM:&tbnh=156&tbnw=228&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwheel%2Bcylinder%2Bpiston%2Bretaining%2Btool%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26rlz%3D1B3GGLL_enCA397CA397%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D801%26tbs%3Disch:1%26prmd%3Divb&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=614&vpy=523&dur=37&hovh=187&hovw=269&tx=120&ty=174&ei=bOf9TLnkCIv4swPP1uWrCw&oei=bOf9TLnkCIv4swPP1uWrCw&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:17,s:0
     
  4. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Difficult to state what problems you will run into on a 13 year old vehicle, may find yourself spending a couple of hours just trying to remove the brake drum. Strictly a Saturday morning job starting early in the morning. After fighting with the brake drum, may find the shoes are rusted solid to the lower anchors and may find drips of brake fluid at the wheel cylinder. Or the backing plate is so badly rusted, should be removed, sandblasted and repainted.

    Seen some so badly rusted, could apply full hard pressure to the brake pedal with the drum removed and not even budge the shoes. Then trying to remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder without breaking it off first, should have a double flaring tool set in case you have to replace that line. Use to sell new cylinder rubber kits, but today, cheaper to buy a rebuilt wheel cylinder than those kits that use to sell for under a buck a piece, but also need a wheel cylinder honer to do the job right.

    Believe this vehicle uses that large U shape spring to hold the shoes closed, those are a lot easier to remove than reinstall. If the drums have to be turned, they don't arch the shoes anymore, so only get a small shoe contact point at the center of the shoe. Better if you don't want to hand sand the shoes so they fit properly, just to buy new drums.

    Shoes after installed should be able to be moved vertically up and down so they can self center. Lower anchors are key, have to be cleaned, I learned a long time ago even on new shoes to coat the anchoring points with anti-seize, just wipe those point off with rage before applying black brake grease, also on the wheel cylinder and adjusting bar points.

    Then you may also find a broken or rusted solid parking brake cable spring, brakes will never work right, some can be freed and greased, others just have to be replaced.

    Just saying you don't know what you are in for until you get started, could even be done in five minutes if damned lucky. I never seem to be that lucky. Feel its criminal the highly corrosive crap they use in brakes.
     
  5. Scotty

    Scotty Sr. Member

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    thanks for the info u all! this car is a florida car so i dont see any problems getting the drums off. the one in the junkyard was alittle bit rusty so i used PB blaster on the face of the drum, and 3 wacks with the hammer got them off no problem. the junk car didnt have the cylinders fall apart. they stayed put. they are almost the same as my 91 honda's wheel cylinders. my friend was also complaining about a low petal so im gonna check the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. i told him if i see a leaky wheel cylinder, its gonna be replaced, no if, ands, or buts!! i know my 91 honda needs a right rear wheel cylinder, but everything near it is rusted badly. the left side cylinder was a pain to remove when i had the rear breaks changed. the line ended up breaking in 2! i will keep ur alls tips in mind, and i plan to do one side at a time anyways. i did the same in the junkyard when i removed them to get an idea. thanks Scotty
     
  6. jjdrewski

    jjdrewski Sr. Member

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    Quick comment: Take pics before dissassembly.
     
  7. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    I can precisely remember where every part goes even if I install them the next day. But if I wait any longer, will even forget I removed the old brakes in the first place.
     
  8. Jim Fairbanks

    Jim Fairbanks wrench

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    Dang Nick.....that is pretty good...you can remember till the next day...LOL......If I take a break I almost forget where the car is....Jim
     
  9. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Sheesh, is that what growing old does to ya all? I jest guys, I am 35 so the infamous 40's are not far for me, man anybody I saw who was 40 when I was a kid was a freakin fossil. Now I see it differently, life experience is the true school. School of hard knocks!! :thx, :eek:
     

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