Experiencing issue with 1996 Bronco full-size front wheel hub - I had converted from factory auto hubs to Warn Manual Premium several years ago (made sure to get the full conversion set - hub body, lock nuts, etc. ) and had no issues from 2005 to current. Lately I had been having a little bit of rolling vibration and upon inspection the inner lock nut key washer on the passenger side had spun on the spindle allowing the bearings/hub to loosen and tire to wobble. I guess I didn't check to make sure it was installed correctly after I disassembled to replace the balljoints last summer. Destroyed threads on spindle. Due to needing a new spindle and with the known situation I ordered a new spindle, inner and outer bearings/races, bearing lock nut set (inner, key washer, outer lock) and necessary seals. The BOM on the axle (3rd member 44/"IFS"/TTB, ABS) is 610447-10 - I made sure to cross reference the BOM against the spindle I was ordering. Interestingly, the vehicle is a 1996 but the BOM matches that listed from 1994 - last-production-year leftover parts pick-a-thon? Spindle bearing was greased and two-piece seal installed on shaft/spindle. I torqued the spindle retaining nuts to 35 ft lbs as per ALLDATA specs. Cleaned out the hub and drove out the old races, installed new races and packed bearings, seals, etc. and made sure races were fully seated. Put it all back together, making sure to spin the wheel while torquing the inner bearing lock nut to 50 ft lbs as per ALLDATA, then backed off 90*. Installed key washer, and outer lock nut to 180 ft lbs (man, that was a . . . ). I noticed that the wheel seemed to require too much force to turn but figured it was done to spec. I reinstalled the hub body and installed the c-clip on the axle shaft. I noticed that the hub-body outer snap ring didn't sit fully in the grove inside the wheel hub - the hub body was too far out to allow the ring to fall into the grove in the hub. When I attempted to install the hub face/knob the lip didn't sit fully inside the wheel hub. So, I took it all back apart and checked the races again, performed the bearing seating procedure several times, and reattempted the hub install with the same results. It seemed that the wheel hub was sitting too far up on the spindle, which meant the manual hub body was sitting against the end of the spindle and not far enough out in the wheel hub. I disassembled, again, and this time tried backing off the inner lock nut 160-180* after seating and reassembled. This time the wheel spun much more freely ("correct" by feel) and the hub body outer lock ring sits in the wheel hub grove correctly and the hub face/knob recesses into the wheel hub correctly. Reinstalled the tire and noticed that there was a wobble when pushing/pulling the tire. I double checked and the balljoints are stationary, the play is between the spindle/hub. I figured that I had backed off the inner nut too far so I took it allllll apart, again, and checked that the spindle was sitting correctly in the knuckle and that it was torqued down correctly. I tried several permutations of preload/"backing off" the inner nut after seating. The situation is that if I tighten the inner locknut enough to keep the hub from wobbling it requires too much force to turn the tire and the manual hub body/face won't install correctly. If I loosen the inner locknut enough to allow the proper turning force and installation of the manual hub body/face the hub/rotor wobbles when pushing/pulling on the tire. I double checked the bearings/races and for 1996 the only bearings listed are Timken set 37 (outer) and 45 (inner), with no notation of difference for manual vs auto hubs. I checked the part numbers of the bearings/races that I removed and they match set 37 and 45 that I put in. I am sure the races are seated properly. I noticed on a parts website that for 1994 axles there is the same inner bearing set 45 listed but two different outer bearing sets - set 37 for auto hubs and set 38 for manual hubs. I verified this by researching the Timken Bearing Application Guide (BSAC). Could this be the problem? I can see the bearing/race set fixing the issue with the "spacing" of the wheel hub and hub body, but cant' see it addressing the rotational-torque issue. The rotor/hub assemblies are listed as different part numbers between 1994 and 1996, but some also list that they fit 1990-1994, some 1994-1995, and some 1994-1996. I can't find the specs on them but I do know that 94/95 was the transition to ABS so it may just be the tone ring difference between the parts. The only other issue I can think of is the spindle - the original that I removed had the keyway/washer grove facing upwards. The replacement spindle, when installed as required by the ABS sensor location/cutout in the spindle, has the keyway/washer grove facing down. Could this be the problem? Although the keyway is facing down the pin on the inner lock nut aligns correctly with the washer holes and an eyeball comparison of the two spindles shows all dimensions the same, execpt for the cutout for the ABS sensor. Thanks for taking the time to read this ridiculously long post, and thanks in advance for any insight!!