1991 Volvo 940 SE Rough start, stalling

Discussion in 'Import Vehicles' started by tressler, Sep 9, 2007.

  1. tressler

    tressler Jr. Member

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    Hi, my Volvo is getting harder to start, it always stalls immediately after a start, and sometimes stalls while braking even when it's warm. Any ideas where to start? 193K on her, FPR and in-tank pump on about 8-10K old.

    Checked for codes, 131, 231, and 232 were set. I erased them and so far they have not reset.
     
  2. 2POINTautO

    2POINTautO Hero Member

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    Start with a throttle body cleaning, when was the last tune up.
     
  3. wire

    wire Full Member

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    1991 Volvo 940 SE Rough start, stalling

    is the intake ducting intact????......any vacuum leaks????

    this IS the 4 cyl engine????......B230F????
     
  4. tressler

    tressler Jr. Member

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    4 cyl engine? Yes .

    B230F? Yes.

    Haven't found any leaks yet.
     
  5. wire

    wire Full Member

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    does it blow black smoke?????
     
  6. tressler

    tressler Jr. Member

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    No smoke at all. Gonna look for leaks with some propane. Can't take the throttle body off to clean until I get a new gasket.
     
  7. tressler

    tressler Jr. Member

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    Ok, here is an update. I decided the clean the throttle body today. Bought some good throttle body cleaner and some paper gasket. While disconnecting the hose from the turbo to throttle body I noticed a huge hole in the bottom of the hose! I fixed it temporarily with some duct tape.

    So, I continued, took the throttle body off and ewwww... It was really nasty looking inside! Cleaned it thoroughly with the cleaner and a toothbrush.

    Put everything back together, thinking surely, one of these problems had to fix the stumbling issue. Before starting the car, I checked for codes, showed a 231, 232, and 212. Cleared the codes. Started it back up. Absolutely no difference at all!

    Hmmm... did I hook everything back up correctly? NO! The throttle position sensor, that I had also cleaned the electrical connections on, was hanging down. I had forgotten to plug it back in.

    Surely, that was now the problem. Plugged it in, cleared all the codes. Started the car, and again, absolutely no change!

    Is the TPS bad? How can I check it?
     
  8. 2POINTautO

    2POINTautO Hero Member

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    Does your car have an air flow meter or a MAP sensor, I would suspect an AFM, it also can be cleaned, you mentioned the problem getting worse as time went by, this is also a sign of plugs getting bad over time but this is usually due to another root problem. Turbo huh, is the intake boots oily?
     
  9. tressler

    tressler Jr. Member

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    Well, fixing, and then replacing the air intake hose stopped the decel stalling. But as I said, still had off idle hesitation, was gonna take the advice and clean the AIC next. But, the old brick just shut off and would not re-start on my wife the other day. So, when I got to the car, I looked at all the usual stuff, fuel pumps were running, I was gettin spark.. hmmm... so, I ran the Diagnostic Test Mode 3, really cool test by the way, everything sounded fine, except, no injector pulses...

    So, since the cooling fan relay and radio suppression relay are identical, I swapped them. She fired right up! Drove it home, less than a mile so no need to worry about the auxiliary cooling fan.

    Popped open the "bad" relay, looked at it under a magnifying glass, most of the solder joints were cracked! Fired up the old Weller heated up each joint to let the solder re-flow. Put the relay back in and the old brick fired right up, instantly! Not only that, NO MORE HESITATION!

    So, moral of the story is... for an old brick that's slow to start, and has off idle hesitation, we need to put the radio suppression relay on the list. Best thing, no need to buy a new one, just re-solder the cracked joints.

    Thank you!
     

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