'06 Trailblazer: Warning lights

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by TB_06_tuner, Apr 2, 2008.

  1. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    ???
    Hi everyone,

    I am new to this forum. Hoping you folks might have some answers or point me in the right direction to solve an annoying problem.

    2006 Chev Trailblazer 4. 2 I6 4x4

    Multiple warning lights all at same time: Stabilitrak, ABS and Brake warning lights and Service Stabilitrak message are displayed at same time. Also Heater\Blower not working. Started out as an intermitant problem and now is constant. I am unable to drive the vehicle only due to the defrost blower for windshield. (Live in Canada).

    One possible TSB seems to describe the problem: TSB 3832
    Failing Component: Service Brakes, Hydraulic:Antilock
    Description of Summary: Abs, red brake ,svc and 4wd on, hvac blower inoperative.

    Another possibility was suggested to me: may be the wheel speed sensor - warn out, etc.

    I appreciate any ideas or options you may have.

    Thank you in advance!
     
  2. kev2

    kev2 wrench

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    Let us know - 1)vehicle is STOCK?? no aftermarket?

    THe TSB posted sounds like a bogus item -.... not the GM format for TSB'S

    The stsrting point will be question 1) above, then do you have a scanner for ABS- B, codes, SRS, etc .... you can use?

    How long has the SES (service engine soon) light been on?
     
  3. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    Thanks for the quick response.

    The only after market add-on is a K&N FIPK and that is it. The problem has be occuring intermitantly for about a month. Usually, I can shut it down and restart a few times and it resolves itself. The last week it has been more and more difficult and is constant since yesturday. I do have a new OBD2 scanner however, it does not throw a code it only puts the service lights on (strange). It is a decent scanner that provides descriptions of codes and can reset. It has worked well on my other vehicles. Do most scanners provide ABS codes? I will look at the manual and see for sure if it reads ABS codes and reply back.

    Thanks,
    Bruce
     
  4. Ford_Dude

    Ford_Dude wrench

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    You need an ABS capable scan tool. I would call the dealer and see if they would look at it, might even still be under warranty. If not then I would go to my local mechanic and have him look at it.

    Ford_Dude
     
  5. kev2

    kev2 wrench

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    1) stock...nothing added ?no remote starter just the.... K&N?
    2) how long has the SES been on?


    MOst scanner will access only part of the PCM ...NOT ABS, SES, Stability, etc
     
  6. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    Ahhhh, that is a bummer. :'( You are correct about my scanner (Innova 3100 a) does most things except ABS codes. Do you know how I can get my hair to grow back now after pulling it out for weeks? LOL. I have just booked it in with my mechanic friend. I will post back any info and diagnosis found.

    Answers to Kev2 questions:
    -Yes, completely stock except K&N
    -Lights on intermitantly for 3-4 weeks.
    -Lights now on constantly 2 days
    -2000 miles past warranty

    Thanks again and have a good day. :thx
    Bruce
     
  7. kev2

    kev2 wrench

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    Remove the K&N*, hopefully the dealer could help you under warranty ... its their call, not part of problem system That POS K&N would not help you cause...


    * Give this to some you do not like....

    PS: in your TSB search did you find the GM TSB concerning problems with K&N and drivability...I am sure your K&N literature addressed that :ROFL

    Good luck ...
     
  8. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    Just as an FYI.

    Did a little further digging, if anyone else is trying to diagnose ABS and brake light problems, the only consumer based scanner available is from Actron, part number CP9449 "ABS BrakeScan". This only reads ABS\brake codes, cost is about $170 - Autozone, Napa, etc.

    At this point, my mechanic buddy is the route to go - his shop has all the pro tools.

    Talk with you all soon.
    B
     
  9. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    |!!| fixed
    Hold on to your seats. . . . found a solution. If you tilt the steering wheel you change which lights are on. No kidding. . . did I mention I was on one foot, patting my head, and chewing gum at the same? Talk about a stupid problem.

    Tried checking all connections after discovering that fliping the tilt steering wheel up made some lights go off. Figured this was a loose connection or wire being pulled when tilting the wheel. Checked every possible connection related to ignition in the column, under dash, inside access panel (drivers side/dash panel).

    Steps: Remove all dash panels to access under dash, steering column, side dash access panel. Then disconnect each connector, check and re connect, make sure comb is in correctly. Then reach up into column and gently pull\push on wire at ignition switch (or is completely apart re&re). This is the place I discovered the wire was looped over something and being pull out of the connector.

    GM. . . go figure! :ROFL

    Take care all and thank you for your assistance.
    Bruce
     
  10. cmiller36

    cmiller36 Newbie

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    My 2007 Colorado has issues like this and it has 7K miles. . AND GM can't figure out why. . .
    So its been filed under lemon law in NC now
     
  11. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    Well, my "FIX" of checking all the wiring connections lasted a few weeks and is now back again. Same problem, same work arround - tilt stering wheel up, start engine, and tilt back down. I believe it is related to the "start/Run" wire not connecting to power accessories/other systems (ABS, Blower motor, Etc) ???

    I'm tired of ripping apart the dash/colunm.
    Any suggestions on what color wire "start/Run is? I would like to trace but do not have any wiring schmatic.

    Thanks folks!
    Bruce
     
  12. EricC

    EricC Hero Member

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    The most common problem I've seen with these has been the ignition switch. That having been said, I've also seen more oddball causes for ignition voltage concerns on the trailblazers than most other GM vehicles. Have a look at the following, and in addition, you might take a look under the fuse block under the rear seat and see if you have any chafed wiring.

    The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
    Condition/Concern:

    Vehicle may exhibit a combination or all of the following symptoms: ABS light on, Red BRAKE light on, Service 4WD light on, HVAC blower motor inoperative. Various DTCs may also be present.
    Recommendation/Instructions:

    Diagnose for loss of battery voltage to the rear fuse block on circuit 300 ORN for the following fuses:

    Note: Prior to proceeding forward with the information below, it is important to verify the voltage as indicated however it is equally important to verify the integrity of each circuit. This can be achieved by performing a voltage drop test or by adding a device to each circuit that will supply sufficient load to verify the circuits integrity.

    HVAC 30A, 4WD 15A, HVAC 1 10A, BRAKE 10A, TBC RUN 3A.

    1. Check circuit 300 ORN for battery voltage when the ignition key is in the RUN position.
    2. Check for battery voltage at the rear fuse block under the rear seat Connector C1 pin D9.
    3. If battery voltage IS NOT present at these locations, check for voltage at the ignition switch pin G for circuit 300 ORN.
    4. If battery voltage IS present at the ignition switch pin G, check circuit 300 for an open.
    5. If battery voltage IS NOT present at the ignition switch pin G, replace the ignition switch.

    HTH, Eric.
     
  13. TB_06_tuner

    TB_06_tuner Newbie

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    Hey EricC

    You are right on the money!

    I followed your instructions and checked everything. One of the circuits you suggested I found that the orange Pin G on the switch was not getting power. Intermitantly I was able to get power on this, but most times nothing. I took apart the switch and could identify one of the contacts was worn and burnt black (orange pin G). Just as a test I cleaned up the contact and tried it and it worked, but it is a mess. I will purchase a new switch and change it tomorrow. Finally, this silly problem will be over.

    Thank you very much for your instructions, they were a life saver (or at least a sanity saver!)

    All the best, Bruce
     
  14. Gus

    Gus wrench

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    Any time you have a bad contact, you create an arcing issue....you are replacing the ignition switch....also replace the connector in the harness of that circuit that was the problem.....
     

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