03 Accord Starting issues

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#1
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MAKE: Honda
MODEL: Accord
YEAR: 2003
MILES: 180,000
ENGINE: 2.4
DESCRIBE ISSUE....

Car would randomly not start, had the starter checked and it was bad. Changed starter.
Car worked fine for a while then wouldn't start. Jump started car and it would work for a while then
not start again.
Now the car wont even jump start.
Checked battery-Good
Checked alternator-Good
Checked for power to Starter-Good
Checked for power to Alternator-Good
Checked for power to fuse box-Good
Car wont even turn over, when I try to start it all I hear is a click.
Changed the battery post connectors to the battery cables and made sure they were tight.

Where should I go from here to diagnose this problem?

Thanks!
 
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#2
The click is at the starter yes?
That sounds like battery, how old?
The cables pos and neg both ends at battery and starter and ground - tight corrosion free.
 

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#3
The battery is only a year old, had it load tested at 2 different places. If it was the battery it would at least crank when being jumped, correct? All connections are tight and corrosion free.
 

billr

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#4
Using jumper cables can be "iffy". You can't conclude the battery is OK because jumpering to another battery didn't help.

Did this change from a "crank but won't fire" to "won't crank" issue, or has it always been "no crank"?

The way to track this down is with a voltmeter. Do you have one, and are willing to crawl under the car and do some voltage measurements?
 
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#5
Using jumper cables can be "iffy". You can't conclude the battery is OK because jumpering to another battery didn't help.

Did this change from a "crank but won't fire" to "won't crank" issue, or has it always been "no crank"?

The way to track this down is with a voltmeter. Do you have one, and are willing to crawl under the car and do some voltage measurements?
The battery has been tested and is good. Previously it would crank, just started not cranking. I have one and will do whatever to find the problem.
 

billr

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#6
OK, then we need somebody to post a schematic of the starting circuit. Is this an always "no crank" situation now, or intermittent?
 

billr

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#8
I took a peek at pictures of that starter, it's pretty standard so I can get you looking at voltages even without a schematic. It looks like the manual and auto trans use different starters, but both will have one larger terminal (stud), about 5/16" or 8mm diameter, with a a large battery cable attached to it. There is also a small terminal that has a quick-disconnect "spade" terminal. One version of the starter has an additional large terminal that connects to a short bare cable/strap that disappears into the starter housing.

First, check voltage at the large term with cable, measuring relative to the starter case itself, not the battery negative term or even a handy engine/chassis ground. That should read battery voltage (about 12V) before trying to crank and while trying to crank. It will drop down a little while trying to crank (or actually cranking), but if it drops any below 10V, let us know.

Next, check voltage at the small term; again relative to the starter case. It should be 0V when not cranking, and battery voltage while trying to crank.

If those check out, and your starter has the second large term, then measure voltage at that terminal (to starter case). That should be 0V when not cranking and near battery voltage when trying to crank.

Tell us what you get with those tests, we'll go from there...

PS: all voltages mentioned are "DC"
 
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#9
Put a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to see if you can rotate the crankshaft. (A diagnostic procedure for "makin' sure the engine ain't locked up")
 
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#12
I like to do electrical checks at a point "in the middle of the circuit" that is easy to access. Starter Cut Relay in under dash fuse/relay panel may be a good choice.
 
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#14
Many times it is possible to swap it with another nearby relay that is exactly the same, and see what happens. I often will choose a "non-essential" relay like the horn relay. If that makes no difference, you will need to do some tests with your meter or a 12V test light.
 

nickb2

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#15
Mobile dans answer is close to my thoughts. Try the AC relay, I think it is same part number.

Since this is intermittant, I would guess on a ignition switch. I don't know if this wiring was posted or not, but the wiring is quite simple.

This one is for MT and AT.

The starter cut relay can be bypassed easily enough with a wire. So that can be eliminated quickly.
 

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