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Author Topic: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor  (Read 1841 times)

Offline marine6212

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1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« on: December 04, 2010, 06:26:31 PM »
I have a friend that I am trying to help with his truck! It has the 225CID Slant 6. He had some one put on a new Carb for him and now he say's that the truck has no power. He was pulling a trailer and the max speed was 40 MPH in 3rd gear. I'm not used to a single barrel carb. How do you adjust one of these? I can adjust the fuel air on a 2 and 4 barrel! But I did not see any adjustments on this carb except for Idle and choke. Please help me.

Marine6212
« Last Edit: December 04, 2010, 06:58:25 PM by marine6212 »

Offline billr

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2010, 07:41:42 PM »
Does it mis-fire or anything when it is failing to deliver power?  I mean, are you sure the throttle is opening fully?  Anything other than the butterfly restricting correctly-metered mixture should cause detectable engine roughness or mis-fire.  With any carb like that I would suspect the float level; but since it is "new" I would suspect the whole thing, since it should have worked OK.  Things like metering jets, air-bleed jets, power valve, float level, gaskets, etc.  Carbs are often "rebuilt" crappily; probably more of a problem now that they have become antique and good parts and skilled people less easy to find.


Offline marine6212

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2010, 08:19:41 PM »
About 2 weeks ago he was complaing about it idleing high I backed the choke off it was almost closed! I don't see any fuel air mixture screw on the base of the carb. He complained about it won't start when its cold and you have to go out and push the choke closed! I think the automatic choke is messed up. It should close when its cold and as it warms up it should open up! I don't understand the loss of power with just a carb change. (old carb seals dry rotted and worn out leaking fuel through any opening it could find) This kid paid over $200 for this carb and I just want to help him out.

Marine6212

Offline billr

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2010, 11:09:39 PM »
OK, it's a hard-luck story about a poor kid; I get it.  Now, how does it run off-idle?  Besides checking throttle opening, you might put a vacuum gage on there with a long hose, so you can check vacuum at full-throttle under load.  It should be nearly zero.  I assume nothing was done with ignition timing during this time, right?  I won't even ask where the vacuum line is connected to on the carb (manifold vacuum or spark-port) since it wouldn't affect full-throttle operation at all.  I didn't mean to sound so snotty in the first sentence, but I still am very suspicious of that new carb, no matter how much he paid.  Did I understand correctly that you got involved after the new carb was installed and all those choke and idle issues popped up?

Offline Mobile Dan

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2010, 11:26:41 PM »
The engine will not have full power if the choke is not fully open when the engine is warmed up. Fix the choke before trying any other type of adjustment.

Offline billr

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2010, 08:02:21 AM »
I woke up this morning unsatisfied about how this thread has started out.  Maybe it's already time to re-group?  What was the original problem symptom; why was the carb changed?  Was it poor power, hard starting, poor idle (and hot or old?), misfiring, external fuel leaks, poor gas mileage, etc?  Any other work done just before or during the current problems?  In other words, tell us a bit more of the story.  I am especially interested to find out if this truck is known to have ever had the desired power; my perception from the original post is that it did, before the carb change, is that correct?

Offline nickb2

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Re: 1985 Dodge D100 carburetor
« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2010, 12:26:11 PM »
Double barrel is a good upgrade, easy to install and more out there. Could have had a fully working 318 engine in there for 200$ more. Anyways, as every one else said here, fix that choke. Hey, put in a manual if need be, they sell at canadian tire for cheap and you will never have vacuum, thermostatic, heat riser, etc choke problems again. But getting back to it, if that choke is ok, you have to know if that float is level, power pump is working, linkages not binding and not bent, a good sign is at rest the rods should all be loose and not forcing one another. Is the base gasket sound and not pulling air. Ain't gonna get no power if choke plate is closed after start up and warm up. Is the throttle shaft binding? Usually a carburator is pretty simple and doesn't lack power unless something else is affecting it, it may be hard to start, may stumble on acceleration due to a bad power pump, other issues causing poor power are fuel pump not delivering at high rpm. worn cam lobe or bad diagphram(sh%t can't spell that word).  Bad EGR vavle?
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