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I agree with Al.....unless maybe you twisted the brake line outting the caliper back on...Jim

Part of the coil.....what are the code #'s you are getting?....2,4,6 are all on one bank....the front as you are looking at it....Does it run ok?....what problems are you having?...Jim

may also just be from the burnishing.to be sure i would take it apart,but from what you said i wouldnt bet on finding anything.10 brake apps like that are maybe a bit of overkill and i would say the brakes must have gotten pretty hot.

 Thank You All,But it was The ignition switch.

i think there was a loose plate in the battery and when key on it made a spark and blew in the battery.
i think you should use marine battery in a van..............

Thanks to all for the advice. Finally got around to doing this job. Caddy rides like a dream, once again.

Not a hard job. The rear was especially simple and I turned that around in no time. The front a bit more challenge because it is a strut assembly rather than a shock (like the rear). I was able to create the special tool needed at the top without too much difficulty.

Just to be safe, I had it towed to my local alignment guy for the requisite alignment.

She's smooth as silk again!

2000 Dodge Ram 1500
5.9
120K miles
2WD

Just did a brake job on the front of this fine beast. No problems noted. Old pads were well worn, but evenly so, and still had a little bit of pad left (very little, but a little).

Old stuff came off fine, pistons compressed nicely, new clips, new pads all went on well. Caliper back in place and bolts in--all good. Torqued the lug nuts back on to 100 lbs/ft.

Test drive: did the burnishing technique of going 45 and very gradually slowing to almost stopping. Back up to speed and after allowing time for brake cooling, slowed again. Plan was to do that 10 times. After the 7th, noted that distinctive burning brake odor. Got out and checked around and the left front was putting out some some, that awful odor, and the wheel seemed hotter than the other side. Let it cool for a while. Drove back home with minimal braking. Still some odor and heat.

Have not taken anything apart yet as it seemed hot. I'll jack it up tomorrow and have a look. Any ideas where the problem might be? Sticking caliper? Bad brake line? It all seems strange because there were no problems before the pad change.

Thanks for any ideas and help!

Can your scanner display actual sensor data?  It's very possible for a sensor to fail but be "in range" so as to not set a failure code.  For example, an engine-coolant sensor can fail showing a valid temperature that is way too cold (say -20F on a 75F day) that causes the mixture to be so rich the engine will hardly start or idle.

My 91 Honda Civic 1.5L, 193k miles with dual point injection with auto trans is bogging down when the engine is hot. it refuses to accelaterate while in gear. it acts like its out of gas while i have plenty in the tank. i got 8 gallons of fuel in the tank. its done it in the past like 3 or 4 times to me. I was told by my mechanic last yr that my TPS sensor is possibly going bad, but i cant replace the part unless i replace the throttle body. todays episode, it was running fine from Port Orange to Deland to get a tire replaced, and made it back without any problems. i was at my bank leaving, put it in reverse, was fine, then put in drive 4 give it some gas, and the damn thing didnt want to go! had it to the floor and it didnt do much but acted like it was out of fuel. then it came back to life. also, i notice, its starting up much faster too when it did the episodes. it did it 3 times today. so i parked for a few hrs, and started it up, and it was back to normal. what do i need to start looking into first? i just had $800 of motor/ trans work done 5 months ago. otherwise from this issue, it runs good. thanks Scotty

The engine will hardly start and will run ok if you press on the gas, as the RPMs comes down misfires like crazy and wont even idle.  No codes no misfire on the scanner.  Acts like a very large vacuum leak might, I have checked for vacuum leaks and all the sensors and fuel presure everything I have check seems good.  This is a drive by wire hemi with 2 plugs per cylinder 70,000 miles.  I replaced the whole electric T-body but that did not help.  Any ideas would be helpful.