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There is no bending or binding. The locks operate easily by hand. As best as I can tell, the switches dont appear to have any oxidation. Looking at a Haynes manual it seems to indicate there is a bus bar ground somewhere between the fuse box and switch.

Gus and greasemonkey seem pretty convinced the actuator is bad even though I can see significant movement from it and the low voltage going to it. I'm not saying they are wrong. I just wish someone had an explanation for the voltage so, my future troubleshooting on my vehicles doesn't throw me off.

Whether the brake switch is working or not, the pcm will still disengage tcc according to engine load and downshifting.  The solenoid can be stuck on even though the pcm has it commanded off and would result in an engine stall when placed in gear.   I really do not see a reason to suspect a bad tcc solenoid from her description.   The description I read she said it stalls when braking not stalls when placed in gear.  I agree lets keep it simple.

Actuator is a motor with bearings and brushes, easy to repair if that is the problem.  Our problems with the S-10 was rusty door locks requiring a lot more force.  Tried to clean and lubricate those as best as possible, but one actuator was bending the rod more than moving it.  Made brackets to keep it straight.  Yet another problem are those cheap switches, all copper, no plating, and turned green that is copper oxide.  Copper oxide is a very good insulator, so could be polished with Lubriplate added to help retard future corrosion.

Finally got tired of the 200c in my Malibu and got a new car, 2000 Cad Eldorado, Northstar setup.  I believe it's the 4T80 E.

Has 59k miles, and the trans fluid isn't terrible, but I've seen better.  Would it be better to drop the pan and refill with Dex3, or take it to be flushed? I was advised that I should only take it to a GM dealer for flushing, and they would not "flush" per say, but "exchange" the old fluid with Dex6 synthetic.  I would rather do it myself if only to save the $100 on dealer nonsense.

The reason I got to looking at the trans fluid before the computer alert to change the fluid is because of a slight problem with the TCC engagement.  99% of the time, the trans works perfectly.  There was a history code P0174 TCC Stuck Off, but I've only manged to catch this happening once or twice.  It will always lock up over 60 mph, but some times after a long drive, when I'm only going 45-55 mph, it will stay unlocked.  I know it should lock up because if it's cold it will always lock up with no problems.  And the few times I've caught it, after a few minutes it will lock up like nothing was wrong.  I do know that replacing the TCC solenoid requires dropping the engine out, so I'm not anxious to do that.  If a fluid change might be some help, I'd rather try that first. 

Thanks,
-Michael

Lots of times that squeak is caused by the hub moving in closer to the pulley, first thing to check is the air gap, GM or Mastercool make a special tool for this.  Also need that hub pusher/puller tool to remove the hub, then a large pair of snap ring pliers to remove the idler pulley, bearing comes off with it.  But not the easiest to change, gone is the internal snap ring GM use to use and it's now peened in.  GM makes a special peening tool, but with a vehicle this old, the cast iron tends to chip more than form.  I tend to drill in a couple of flat head screws to secure the bearing with just the edge of the flats catching the lip, other guys use Loctite.  If caught soon enough, can pop off the seals, clean the balls, check the races, what you find is very little grease that is rock hard, so I add real grease and good for another 100K miles.  But if you see any pits in the balls or races, it's a candidate for the trashcan.

Put over 300K on a 65 Buick, never had problems with either the compressor or the bearing, so GM did know how to make a good compressor and bearing at one time.  73 Fleetwood bearing went out at 140K, but was easy to change, compressor was on top starring me in the face.  These newer cars are miserable and more prone to failure, it is possible to remove the idler pulley, but you are going to get all dirty in the process.  And with these single drive belt systems, any pulley in that drive train can leave you stranded.  With the Fleetwood, just removed only the compressor drive belt and kept on going, can't do that anymore.  Still had the alternator and the water pump and you really need that water pump with all the plastic and aluminum that are using today.

So is it really that cut and dry?  I just keep scratching my head about the low voltages being supplied to the actuator. I think that is the relay on the back of the switch. Do these relays just NOT go bad?

LETS try the easy simple things first
 just select Neutral when stopping/bbaaking...
 A free easy code ck

some times the TCC circuit is not engerized when ECT is low - the problem may only happen when in "closed loop"
 
initial placing the eng in gear the TCC circuit has not been commanded yet may need to reach ECT and then 3rd 0r forth gear for TCC engagement commad- something as simple as an intermittant problem with brake switch would keep TCC engaged when braking then the resulting stall

 

With the proper puller and installer tool kit the pulley bearing can be replaced fairly easily...Have had one incident in which the compressor failed a few months after doing such a thing.  If he continues to run it that way eventually the bearing will fail, seize and burn up belt, and usually ruin compressor so keep a good ear on it. 

Just had a secondary question regarding this trans.....Can I replace it with any 4L65E?  I can get one local from a corvette and one from a silverado.  Are they the same other than the transfer case mounting to it?

   I have a 1998 nissan altima with a 2.4 litre the service engine light came on so I went to advance auto parts store and borrowed their code reader the following codes came up:  P1448 manufacturer control auxilliary emission control. and P0440 evap emission control system,  was wondering what the next step was to repair this and how to get the service engine light to go off, do you think I can damage anything by driving the car without fixing it the car just turned 70000,miles would appreciate any help.   wayne r